Oak Grove Beach, 1917-1929

Oak Grove Beach, 1920s. If you squint you can see the rail bridge in upper left-hand side of photo that still stands today. Photo: OHS.

I’ve written about Oak Grove in the past and plan on writing more in upcoming posts. (You’ve been warned.)

Downtown Oak Grove is ripe for a renaissance. It’s mere minutes from Milwaukie and Sellwood. Younger families are moving in – or moving back. Land is cheap – and many take advantage of it with urban farms or robust gardens in the area. Some just let nature take over (cough cough) or others decorate with 365-a-day garage sales and plastic blue tarps (insert banjo music here). That’s Oak Grove in a nutshell – from million-dollar homes on the river, to HUD housing blocks away – it’s a mixture of incomes and lifestyles.

It has its history, too. After living here for close to a decade, it’s taken that long to connect with others, learn about the history and really get a sense of community.

One recent fascinating discovery was Oak Grove Beach. I had read about it in the past in Willamette Landings but didn’t think it was an actual destination until I started poking around the Oregonian archives.

From what I gather, the beach was a natural stretch of shore just south of what is now Rivervilla Park. “Beach goers,” mostly from Portland, Milwaukie and Oak Grove, could swim in the Willamette and enjoy the warm sun on the shore. The below map shows the Rivervilla bridge at the top. The beach was most likely located between the bridge from Milwaukie to Lake Oswego and River Forest Lake:

It had different owners through the years. One owner had some problems with the county and was denied a petition for a dance license in 1922. One presumes that this was eventually approved since later newspaper ads advertising dancing.

As years passed, Oak Grove Beach offered more to visitors than just a swim in the Willamette. Festivities for New Year’s Eve at the Rio Vista Pavilion in 1923 was advertised with the promise of “lots of noise, good music, favors for everyone, wonderful floor.” Half-fried chicken was 50 cents. For Thanksgiving, diners could enjoy Percy Brown’s Troubadours, a seven-piece orchestra in the Rio Vista Pavilion and Restaurant, with $100 worth of turkeys given away. New Year’s Eve and Thanksgiving in Oregon? That doesn’t scream “beach weather.” Which means the Pavilion and cottages were constructed to draw visitors year-round. It also means that there were structures along the shore at one point. Intriguing.

Oak Grove Beach wasn’t without tragedy or (some very mild) controversy. In January 1925, Portland youths were found guilty by a jury on possession of “intoxicating liquors.” They were arrested in one of the cottages on New Year’s eve with six young women of Portland by state prohibition agents who declared in court that the kids had chugged a large portion of a gallon of moonshine.

Later that year in July, Ed Hillery of Portland drowned while swimming at night in the Willamette. His swimming companions reported Hillery missing shortly before 10 at night. His body was recovered the following night.

On a lighter note, Oak Grove Beach provided the backdrop for various groups, including camping for organizations and a “newsies frolic” that promised races, baseball, swimming and diving exhibition.

Getting to Oak Grove Beach seemed easy enough. Located a mere 2 miles south of Milwaukie early owners of automobiles on the east side would go south bound to Pacific Highway to Oak Grove and turn right to the beach. Admission at one point was 35 cents for women while men paid 65 cents. Trolley riders would take either the Oregon City or Oak Grove car. Steamboats would bring visitors from Portland.

At the recent unveiling of the wonderful new Trolley Trail, a ped/bike path that follows the long-gone trolley line, there was a trolley on display that perhaps once took visitors to the long-gone Oak Grove Beach.

The beach and pavilion appeared to disappear around 1929. Land on and near the beach was sold to homebuilders who quickly took advantage of the impressive views. Nowadays, the beach is home to private residences and is only accessible if you live in one of the homes or passing by on a boat on the Willamette.

And who knows. On late, warm summer nights if you listen hard enough, maybe you can still hear the strains of Percy Brown’s Troubadours playing a waltz or some hot jazz number to Oak Grove Beach revelers.

Biking through Milwaukie’s past

Photo courtesy City of Milwaukie.

An early morning bike ride learning about local history is a great way to kick of a mid-spring Sunday.

That’s exactly how I spent last Sunday as I rode with a group of bicyclists as we explored historical Milwaukie, Ore., with Bike Milwaukie.

Since last fall, Bike Milwaukie has been leading casual, family friendly bike rides around town – mostly Milwaukie and SE Portland. The rides are fun, informative and a great way to meet people in the community. Most participants are from Milwaukie, some Oak Grove (cough cough), and some Portlanders. Age range is all over the map. Rides are third Sunday of every month.

The most recent ride was a historical ride around Milwaukie. Yes, Milwaukie has a history. A very rich history.  Often maligned (“Milwaukie is sooooo far out there.” It’s 15 minutes from downtown Portland) Or “there’s no ‘there’ there.” (The locals are working on it and there’s people striving to make it better. Main Street has seen some cool stuff come in, there’s a food co-op being developed, possible baseball and of course, light rail.) It’s got issues for sure, though. That said, Milwaukie’s history is interesting.

Founded in 1848 as a rival to Oregon City (another maligned but cool community) by Lot Whitcomb, the city also rivaled Portland for a while, but we know how that ended. The Willamette was a large player in the history, with riverboat  docks along the river and logging driving the economy. Problem was, the river just wasn’t deep enough for increased commerce and Portland won that battle.

Milwaukie’s riverfront was decimated in the late 1880s through the 1950s and is only now being looked at as a possible community gathering place. It has potential – the view is amazing, there’s room for a waterfront park and other amenities such as an amphitheater that could attract the locals and nearby residents.

But back to the bike ride.

The group met at Milwaukie City Hall (where they meet for each ride) and off we went to the first stop: Kellogg Bridge and lake. Once site of a sawmill and a lake that swam with salmon, the bridge will play an integral part of the light rail. Hopefully a pedestrian bridge can be added, connecting downtown to Island Station. There’s also talk of removing the dam at Kellogg Creek which would be wonderful for many reasons.

Up next was a ride through the tony Waverly neighborhood and some stunning 1920s homes built in the style I like to call “1920s silent movie star mansion.” I half-expected a Burns-like character to tell Smithers to release the hounds on us. However, the only run-in we had was with a homeowner getting their Sunday paper, who smiled and waved. (Rich people are friendlier than I thought.)

From there, the group stopped by the Milwaukie Pioneer Cemetery that houses some of Milwaukie’s first residents, including the above-mentioned Lot Whitcomb, Hector Campbell and early Oregon pioneers. It’s a real little-known charmer of a cemetery.

After a brief stop, back on our bikes to the major attraction: the WPA-built former site of the Oregon Highway Commission (now owned by ODOT). Built in 1938, the stone structure was constructed from a local quarry, supposedly by some of the same team that built Timberline. It’s been empty for quite some time but there’s talk of it being re-purposed as a brew pub as part of the baseball complex.

The group then hopped back on their bikes and casually rode through neighborhoods that had a mixture of bungalows, Spanish style, Victorian, and 1950s tract homes. Many of the homes had impressive gardens in the front yards, some had RVs and others had people on their porches drinking coffee and waving to the bicyclists.

A history tour of Milwaukie wouldn’t be complete without a stop at the Milwaukie Museum. Unfortunately it was closed but we got the chance to check out the old Portland trolley on display and cool our heels.

Like the previous ride to the 3 Creeks in April (a wonderful watershed right under our noses that is being threatened with a highway) the ride was a fun way to learn more about the community, meet people in my community and learn what’s going on. The ride is part fun, part exercise, and part lots of community building. Kudos to Bike Milwaukie for hosting these rides. Go here to learn more.

Old Portland walking tour

71 SW Oak (1966)

Aubrie Koenig and Will McKay from The History Press were in town for a couple of days to check out Portland. (History Press is publishing my book on lost Portland eateries and it was cool to meet Aubrie and Will in person and chat about the book.)

As part of their brief stay in Portland, Dan Haneckow presented a two-hour walking tour of downtown Portland on a recent non-rainy but chilly Portland morning. (He’s also working on a book for History Press on Portland’s Great Light Way.) I also got to do some catching up with photographer Alexander Craghead, who recently gave a sold-out presentation for AHC on Railroad Architecture and the Northwest.

The theme of the tour was Three Downtowns in Two Hours (the downtowns of the 1860-1880s, the 1890s and the teens-twenties and beyond).

Dan’s knowledge of this area of Portland’s past shined during the walk as he pointed out surviving buildings, parking lots of lost buildings and horrifically remodeled ones. Since I’ve started working downtown last summer, I’ve had the chance to do a lot of exploring and have become increasingly fascinated with Portland’s cast iron buildings and the area along the Willamette that once housed them.

It’s one thing to read about the history of this section of town, but to walk it and see buildings in person really resonated and helped connect the dots from my lacking early Portland history.

Fechheimer & White Building, built in 1885.

Plaque on the Fechheimer & White Building.

71 SW Oak (retrofitted in 1976)

SW 1st and Oak

SW Ash and 2nd (next to Kells and in desperate need of a retrofit back to its former cast-iron self)

Re-birth of the Eugene Fifth Street Market, again

Call it what you will, a retrofit, renovation, re-do. We like to call it “re-birth,” or the taking of an existing structure and repurposing it a usable space or place.

One good example is Eugene’s Fifth Street Public Market.

What was once a poultry plant built in 1929, it re-morphed into the current-day vibrant market for artisans, foodies and retailers in 1976 – and gets 1.4 million visitors a year.

The next phase for the space, which continues to grow, is the addition of the Inn at the 5th, a boutique hotel that opened last month that connects to the past by:

incorporating elements of the past throughout the hotel, including mantles made using wood from the original Nike Store. Bedside tables and a signature lobby coffee table were handcrafted from the trunk of the stately maple tree that once grew on the site.

Here’s a photo set of pics from the previous decades (no, those aren’t Instagram retro filters) that illustrate how the space has changed through the years:

AHC hard hat tour: Walking through history

The Architectural Heritage Center hosted a “hard hat” tour last Saturday at the Salvation Army building on MLK Blvd.

I’ve driven past the building so many times over the years and it’s so a part of the urban landscape of the Grand/MLK Blvd. fabric that I almost knew where it was by memory alone (“the Salvation Army logo on the brick building by that one office supply store and the indoor soccer place?”). Usually – mostly – MLK/Grand is sadly used as a driving route to get to and from downtown. It was a nice to be able to slow down and do some walking before the tour and check out the neighborhood, recently dubbed Produce Row by the city. And walking – running- across MLK to the Salvation Army building was an adventure.

I showed up a bit early and checked in and walked around the space a bit. Immediately noticeable was that funky smell of abandoned building – which brought back memories of illegal activities and secret hideouts, way back before I knew what the word “preservation” and “retrofit” meant. Attendees started to gather and were milling about on the first floor, some snapping photos and others chatting.

Impressive beams and other structural feats aside, the building has an interesting story, as does the Salvation Army. The crowd gathered around displays while Morgen Young from Alder told the tale of the Salvation Army and its auspicious beginnings in Portland (members had rotten fruit and vegetables thrown at them for displaying signs) and its history dating back to England.

Next up was Venerable Properties who explained the history of the building and how it’s being retrofitted. The building itself is actually two buildings. The south half was constructed in 1893 and was then expanded and remodeled in 1930 by architect Frederick Manson White, giving it the uniform appearance it has today.

According to Venerable:

While the 1893 building first had a hay-and-feed use, it was later owned and used by the Salvation Army as their Industrial Home in 1913. Industrial Homes were more common in major American cities during this time as the Salvation Army was growing and spreading their mission to help the poor. The purpose of the Home was to provide work and shelter for homeless, unemployed men. They would collect, sort and resell recyclable items such as rags and paper and collect, repair and sell second-hand merchandise such as clothes, shoes, furniture and household items.

The original exterior?

Venerable says once the rehab is complete, the first floor multi-tenant retail spaces will have restored storefronts, high ceilings and exposed structure. The upper floors will have high ceilings, original timber construction and operable windows with downtown views. The building will be brought up to code with a seismic upgrade, all new HVAC and mechanical systems, elevator, and parking lot upgrades.

The rehabilitation is by the same team that resurrected the White Stag Block, including Venerable Development, Fletcher Farr Ayotte Architects, and Bremik Construction.

If the AHC hosts another hard hat tour, I’ll be there. Great way to see history up close, nerd out on architecture, chat with the architects and learn more about re-using Portland’s many amazing older buildings, not tearing them down.

Portland restaurant memories needed

So, I’m writing a book about Portland’s lost restaurants, diners and bars. The book will cover mostly post WW2- Portland, mid-century, 1960s and 1970s.

I’d love to speak with you if you have memories of your favorite hangouts – and especially if you worked at a restaurant, lounge or bar.

Please send me an email at lostoregon@gmail.com and I will be in touch.

Thanks!

-John

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